Watch Band Replacement and Repai
There are
many reasons that a watch band might need to be replaced or repaired and a
variety of tools that can be used. A new watch band can give a watch an updated
appearance and add a new style to a timepiece. Many times a watchband has been broken and will need to be replaced and sometimes a watch band can be
repaired. There are many types of watch bands that might be designed to fit a
specific watch and depending on the type of watch, a band may have to be
selected that is specifically designed to fit that model. Please see our
selection of
watch bands when considering purchasing a new band.
If you
need to change a personal watch band, a screwdriver or a watchmaker ’s knife is
sometimes the only tool needed. Many jobs can be done in as quickly as 5 minutes
with some simple instructions. A
watchmaker,
jeweler, or someone making frequent watch band repairs will need some
watch tools.
Here
is a list of tools needed, These
tools are probably everything needed
to professionally repair or replace any
watch band:
Band Pin Pusher Pliers
|
Watch Band Pin Remover Base |
Pin Punch Set, Set of 3 |
Watchmakers Hammer
Head Length 3” |
Watchmakers Screwdrivers in Rotating Stand Set
of 9 |
Watchmakers Swiss Case Knife |
Stainless Steel DF Master Assortment |
Stainless Steel Band
Cotter Pin Assortment:
1.00mm Dia,200 Pieces |
Tube & Pin Assortment,
70 Pieces |
Changing a Leather Watch Band
A leather
watch strap wouldn't last more than a
year if
it was used every day. A pair of shoes
worn every day would get torn and weary and would lose any appeal. The same goes
for watch bands. Leather
bands come in
a thousand and
one types including different leathers,
different grains, different colors and
different prices. Some bands are stitched,
others are just glued and some are treated to be water
resistant. The quality comes from the
manufacturer, the raw material used and the
craftsmanship. The band should match the budget of the customer and also the
watch.
Some of
the manufacturers of leather bands have come up
with a system called “Easy Fit”. It has a pin insert in the band
which allows removal
or replacement of the
band without any
tool at
all. These are very handy, especially for
a customer who likes to change bands often.
The drawback is that Easy Fit can
only be used
when there is a perfect match. For
example, if the band is 16mm, the watch
can only be 16 mm. The size
cannot be changed
to make it fit a smaller size.
If the pin inserted at the end is
removed, the band will be ruined.
When
measuring the watch band lug width, the best rule to a proper replacement fit is
that it's better to be tight than loose. If a 15 mm watch band needs a
replacement watch band, always use the same
size or one size up; for 9mm use a band of 10 mm, for a 13mm use a
14 mm, and so on. Trying to replace a 16
mm watch band with a 15mm watch band is much easier but this way raises a huge
risk. The watch band could come off at the first twist of the customer's wrist,
the watch could be dropped or lost or damaged.
Buckle
styles or colors on a leather watch band can also be replaced. There are a variety of watch buckles to
choose from and they are replaced easily with a
watch band pin remover
for removing the pin. To adapt any leather strap for a Gucci watch, a
Watch
Strap Notching Pliers is needed.
Adding Style and Convenience with a Deployment Buckle
In
addition to the buckle provided by the manufacturer, a strap can be upgraded
with a
deployment buckle. A deployment
buckle can be in white or yellow color and replaces fold over type clasps. This
can also add a classic look to the watch
and they are easier to use because it is easier
to feel when unbuckling the deployment buckle.
How to Determine the Size and Manufacturer of Watch Bands
To find
the manufacturer band number, find the
number usually located between the lugs
on the bottom of the band. When measuring the size of the band use a
mm gauge to get the distance between the lugs on the watch case.
This measurement can range from 6 millimeters to
a whopping 28 or more millimeters wide.
Other measurements and parts to identify might
be the end
piece which comes in curved end or
straight end and the type of clasp.
In
today's market most bands offered to the customer
come with a hypo allergenic clasp. It can be identified
by a + symbol on the back of the
buckle. Some brands such as
Mercier Cartier make their band sizes odd (9mm,
13mm, or 15 mm). A 17mm band is commonly used for gents watches.
Metal Watch Band Replacement
Watch
bands come in all types of metals including silver, stainless steel, brass,
aluminum, titanium and gold. We are going to focus on all the materials except
gold. (Information on gold bands is provided below.) The first thing to know
about metal bands besides the size, 12, 14, 16,
18, 20, 22mm, is how it is attached to the watch case. Does
it have a curved end that fits tight or
does it have a straight end? Most watch
bracelets with curved ends have the option for a straight end also.
Expansion metal bands normally come with
a telescopic end that will fit a variety of sizes. Most metal bands can be filed
down to fit smaller case lug openings at the end if necessary. All metal bands
have links to allow sizing down and in some cases to size up. Sometimes it is
challenging to find out how to remove the link, but a careful
inspection should provide all the clues
needed. Most links are attached either by pins, screws, or tubes and
pins. The tubes and pins normally are
used for high end watches such as Omega, Movado, Baum Mercier and others. An
arrow on the inside of the band indicates that there is a cotter pin. It may
look like a screw, but many times it is a pin. Use a
Watch pin Punch Set to remove
cotter pins. Item Number:
64.2003 would do a superb removing cotter pins
especially for beginners. It is recommended that a little more money be spent to get handled
Watch band Pin Pusher
Remover (Item Number:
64.719). This is the tool for professionals
that do band repairs every day. With these pliers a watch band or case would
never be damaged. They work perfectly to remove cotter pins and tubes and pins
with little or no effort and they also push pins back in place with the same easiness. Remember,
the split part should always face the same direction of the arrow after the
cotter pin is put bank in the band.
Titanium
bands look very similar to stainless steel bands but titanium can be more
brittle when bending. Generally titanium bands do not have titanium cotter pins
or screws, so any cotter pin or the right size screw can be used as a
replacement. Titanium can also be filed down for small adjustments.
How to Repair Metal Watch Bands
Some of
the metal bands for designer watches are attached to the case, some cannot be
removed, and some can only be replaced with original materials because the case
and the band are of complimentary design.
For
example, a Swatch can only have a Swatch band because the leather or metal end
is unique to the brand name.
Some
metal straps have screws to hold links and to attach the band to the case. These screws require care because if they are damaged it is very
difficult to replace them. When a screw is removed from a watch band link, the screwdriver should be the correct size. It should
fit in the diameter of the screw head and should have an even blade. Do not
strip the head of the screw or it will not be able to be removed.
High end
watches are always the exception to the rule. Cartier watch bands whether two
tone, gold and stainless steel or gold only, normally use a tube with screws on
both ends. Remove both screws to size down the band. Breitling also uses
something similar.
Rubber and Other Watch Band Materials
Today
there is a new array of rubber watch bands that are very soft to the touch
stitches, some have a deployment clasp and they are reasonably priced.
The
rubber band is very easy to fit on any watch. A razor blade will shave 1 or more millimeters to make
the band fit a particular watch. Thickness is a factor, so if the watch is thin,
use a thin rubber band. A good selection of stock includes 18mm, 20mm, 22mm and a few 24mm. These and a razor
blade should take care of most needs.
Cloths
band are very inexpensive and very strong These are recommended for people that
work outside or participate in sports. Golfers love them. They come in many
colors and since the band passes through the spring bars, size is not an issue.
Gold and Silver Watch Band Repair
Although the approach
to gold and silver batch bands is similar to metal bands, there is a difference
in pricing.
Silver
and gold bands normally have links that can be removed. Some have screws, some
have cotter pins. Gold is
extremely malleable and can be stretched and bent sometimes even to extremes.
Gold allows for many more custom repairs and modifications.
With
a Rolex, links can be removed with a screwdriver or they they can be ordered and
added to the
band. An old Rolex will require cutting and soldering and is the only way.
A Watchmaker's
True Story:
"A
long time ago a very wealthy customer came to my shop with a 18 karat gold Patek
Phillipe. The original band was in 4 pieces. One end piece was missing and so
was the ladder clasp. My customer had held onto that watch for twenty years and
then he met me. The band was a typical one from the 50’s and the tiny hollow
metal links were smashed. A fancy jewelry store in Chicago and another in New
York had already told him the band was impossible to fix. The customer and I
agreed on a price to fix it. I ordered gold tubes and gold wire and in two days,
24 links, one clasp end and one ladder clasp later the band was like new. I
waited a couple weeks before calling my customer. He is still my best fan and
tells everyone about me fixing his watch. I would never tell a customer that a
gold band or a gold watch cannot be repaired. I would tell him/her that it will
be costly but it can be done and I can do it."
Watch Band Pin Replacement
Watches
have many types of pins: [See our guide to
watch band pins illustrated]
There are
many more tools to remove pins; there are many more types of watch band pins. We have listed the basics
that are available. As a watchmaker learns more of the trade and starts discovering tricks
of the trade and begins favoring some tools over others, tools can be added.
Watchmaker's Advice
As with everything, you will encounter all kinds of bands including many not described here. Others include some with beads, some with stones, some held by an elastic band, some with O rings or magnetic. Whatever the material is and whatever the design is, there is always a way to size or fix it. The repair depends on how willing you are to do the job and how much you can charge in return.
Other articles that may help you:
•
How to Change a Leather Watch Band
•
How to Change a Metal Watch Band
•
How to Change a Watch Band - Spring Bar Style, No Holes on the Ends
•
How to Change a Watch Band - Spring Bar Style, with Holes on the Ends
•
How to Install a Link using a Watch Band Screw
•
Watch Band Pin Illustrations
• How to Measure a Spring Bar or "Watch Pin"
•
How to Repair a Leather Watch Band - Missing Holder
•
How to Repair a Leather Watch Band - Re-glue
Shop our entire catalog of watch bands: